Tag: intrepid travel

Malaysia

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After our final night in Trang, we drove south to the Malaysian border at Bukit Kayu Hitam. A fairly straightforward land border crossing, a scan of all our luggage and a 90 day tourist visa granted – though I will only be here for a week.

We continued to George Town in Penang and arrived in the late afternoon. After settling into the hotel, we had a brief orientation walk before heading to a hawker centre for some Malaysian street food and a beer.

The next day started with a journey out to Kek Lok Si temple in the hillside above George Town. Afterwards we headed to the old town and saw the town and city halls (very British style) as well as a clan jetty and some street art on Armenian Street.

Kek Lok Si Temple
Lanterns for lunar new year
George Town city hall
A clan jetty
Street art in George Town

It was very humid on this day. After finding lunch in some air conditioning, a few of us then set out on a street art tour of the old town. There is so much street art here, some are on the main streets, some in little, narrow alleys and despite it being lunar New Year’s Eve, it wasn’t too busy.

Street Art in George Town

We headed back to the hotel in the late afternoon and had some dinner across the road. The restaurant was pretty busy as a number of places were closed for lunar new year. We ended the night on the rooftop of the hotel as fireworks were going off in celebration of the year of the horse.

I really enjoyed George Town, the old town had a lovely vibe to it and I’d definitely recommend you come here if you’re visiting Malaysia.

The next day was a travel day to Kuala Lumpur. Back in 2004 as a shy and naive 19 year old, I had 2 nights in KL (as the locals call it) on my way to a working holiday in New Zealand. I stayed in a hotel on Jalan Alor in Bukit Bintang and was so scared I did not leave the hotel room. Thankfully my confidence has improved in the intervening 20 or so years…

Our hotel was on the edge of Chinatown. We arrived mid afternoon and headed to the Central Market for a late lunch. We were also lucky enough to see a lion dance which is traditional to see being performed in the streets at lunar new year. We then headed to the Petronas Towers and then took the Bukit Bintang walkway, an air conditioned walkway between the towers and a large mall about a kilometre away in Bukit Bintang.

Central Market
The Petronas Towers

In the evening I managed to meet an old university friend for a coffee and cake, and to try and catch up on the 18 or so years since we last saw each other! One of the things I love about travel is meeting up with friends from around the world and although we met at university rather than travelling, without my current travels I’m not sure when we would have seen each other in person again.

We had a free day in KL the next day. Most of the group started the day with an early morning trip to Batu Caves. Going early (we were there by sunrise at 7.30am) meant we missed the crowds and the heat, and most of the monkeys which roam in this area. It’s a bit of a climb up the nearly 400 colourful steps, and at the top is a cave containing a Hindu temple.

Batu Caves

We were back at the hotel for a late breakfast and afterwards some of us meandered around the sights in Chinatown, which was all decorated with red lanterns for new year.

I had booked to go up the Petronas Towers in the afternoon, something I’d intended to do 22 years ago so was very pleased to finally get there on this trip. I find these towers to be so very elegant and it was cool to be on the sky bridge which, fun fact, is not actually connected to the 2 towers! It is constructed to sway in the wind and so the bridge can move slightly in and out of both towers. Some excellent views to be had from the skybridge and the viewing platform.

From the Petronas Towers

The next day we were off to our final stop in Malaysia, Melaka, also sometimes written as Malacca. Like George Town, Melaka is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I found it more crowded the George Town (maybe because of the timing of the new year holidays), but there’s lots of pretty buildings and more street art to be seen.

We had 2 nights in Melaka and on our full day we started with a trishaw tour (like a rickshaw but with 3 wheels). We saw a number of sights in the old town including the Christian churches, mosques and Chinese temple.

In Melaka

After a lovely lunch along the river, my roommate and I meandered the streets in the afternoon, had a McFlurry and headed to some air conditioning in the hotel before our final evening in Malaysia. A group of dinner followed by drinks at a bar along the riverfront.

This trip in Malaysia was focused on the cities rather than the natural scenery. I enjoyed the sights and art in George Town and Melaka and it was so great to meet up with my old friend in KL, as well as finally getting to the Petronas Towers.

Next up, 24 hours in Singapore before onwards to Jakarta…

Bangkok to Trang

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After feeling at my most ‘race across the world’ getting to and from a few days R&R on Koh Samet (via a minibus and ferry), I was back in Bangkok, this time in Banglamphu. This area of Bangkok contains the famous, or infamous, backpacking area around Khao San Road. I’d stayed in this area on my previous trip to Thailand in 2019 and back then we did spend a lively evening on Khao San Road. However, this time, that didn’t happen. Partly due to age, and mostly due to elections being held which prohibits the sale of alcohol from 6pm the day before the election for 24 hours.

I did, however, spend time wandering around Rambuttri, which has a lot of restaurants and cafes, and found a good (western) lunch spot for smashed avo and sourdough.

The next trip I’m doing is with Intrepid Travel, who I’ve only travelled with once before. 12 of us in the group, from a wide range of countries. We met up the first evening as usual for introductions and dinner.

The following morning started in now-familiar fashion for tours starting in Bangkok – a Khlong boat trip and a visit to Wat Pho. My third time at both! Wat Pho certainly less busy than at New Year, and if I do come back to Bangkok again, I can probably skip it!

We had a free afternoon before our overnight train south. Along with a few others, I went to Wat Intharawihan which has the tallest standing Buddha in Bangkok. The statue itself is quite flat, and so a different presentation to others seen so far. And despite being in a relatively touristy area, it was quiet and peaceful here.

Wat Intharawihan

The overnight train south was an older model than the one I’d taken to Chiang Mai a month or so ago. Narrower bed up top, 2 seatbelts strung vertically being the only barrier to me not rolling out of bed, and the less said about the toilet, the better!! But it got us south to Surat Thani bright and early the next day. After breakfast at a cafe by the station, we set off on the couple of hours drive to our hotel for the next few nights in Khao Sok. This area of the country has huge limestone karsts, not dissimilar to the scenery in Vang Viang and Halong Bay. We arrived at the hotel shortly after 10am and were able to check in. We spent the day relaxing by the pool and enjoying the scenery as we had a full day of activities on the lake in the national park the following day.

The next morning we drove about an hour to Khao Sok National Park, and to the Cheow Lan Lake. We boarded a longboat to sail across the lake to one of the floating restaurants and activity hubs where we did some kayaking before enjoying lunch. After lunch we were back on the longboat for more scenic cruising and a short hike through the rainforest before returning to shore. I’ve been to Khao Sok on my previous travels and it didn’t disappoint, the scenery is stunning here.

The next day we continued to head south to Krabi. More kayaking, this time through mangrove forest and through some caves, before lunch. We continued to Ao Nang in the afternoon. The weather in this part of Thailand is increasingly hot and as we had a walk to the beach in the late afternoon, the temperature actually reminded me of the 40C heat in Adelaide…though there may have been another reason for my overheating. Dinner that night was at a seafood restaurant and unfortunately I was beginning to feel unwell before the food arrived. After feeling increasingly green through dinner, I headed back to the hotel room and did not leave it for 36 hours…

My one photo in Ao Nang, Krabi

Thankfully we had 2 nights in Ao Nang and I was feeling much better by the time we left to continue south to Trang province. We stopped at a local village, Baan Mod Tanoy, where we learned about the village life in a predominantly Muslim area, and got the chance to do some Batik tie-dying, we all have our souvenir T-shirts to take home. Another local lunch, which was delicious even though I avoided the seafood!! We headed to our hotel at Pakmeng Beach where I was still taking it relatively easily so whilst the others in the group went to explore the beach (significantly quieter than Ao Nang), I rested in the air conditioning. It has become much more humid and tropical as we head south.

This was my last full day in Thailand as we headed to Malaysia the following day. It’s been almost 3 weeks since I arrived back to Bangkok from Cambodia and I’ve covered the length (if not quite the breadth) of the country in that time. Thailand is a fascinating country with lots to see and a great culture to try and immerse yourself in. A bit of a trek from the UK but a great winter sun destination for those looking to avoid the worst of the winter!

Onwards to Malaysia…

Mexico City Stopover

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On my way back from Cuba, I had a 3 day stopover in Mexico City – as I had a layover there anyway, I figured I might as well spend a couple of days there.

Mexico City, Ciudad de Mexico also stylised as CDMX, is the largest city in North America and is also at altitude – over 7,300 feet, which I hadn’t realised beforehand. The city is in a basin and surrounded by peaks and volcanoes which makes for an interesting descent into the airport.

I had arrived from Cuba in the early evening. I was staying at an Ibis Styles in Zona Rosa district. After a brief wander and a McDonalds (ordered in my faltering Spanish), I had an early night as I had an early start the following day for a guided tour around some of the main sights in the centre of the city.

I was met at the hotel by my guides and we took a local bus and then the Metro to the historic centre of Mexico City. We emerged from the metro onto the Zocalo, the main plaza in Mexico City. We visited the Templo Mayor and its museum which contains heaps of artefacts from the excavation of the site, and lots of history on the Mexica peoples. We popped into the cathedral briefly as mass was taking place, and then walked through the streets towards the Palacio de belles artes (Palace of Fine Arts) and Alameda Park. The trees all around the city had this gorgeous purple blossom (I visited in March 2019).

Cathedral; Beautiful blossom in Alameda Park

We then had authentic Mexican tacos for lunch (delicious) and visited Diego Rivera’s famous mural before heading to San Juan market to try some (less delicious) local delicacies including grasshoppers and ants. I can’t say I enjoyed them, but when in Rome…

Authentic Mexican tacos for lunch; Diego Rivera’s ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park’

That was the end of the guided tour, and I took an Uber back to my hotel for a quick refresh before heading off down the Avenida Chapultepec towards Chapultepec Castle (featured as the starting point of series 2 of the BBC’s Race Across The World). I wandered around the castle and its grounds for the rest of the afternoon before heading back to the hotel for another early night.

The view down Avenida Chapultepec from Chapultepec Castle

The next day I had another guided tour – in the morning we took the metro out to the Basilica of Our Lady Guadalupe in the north of Mexico City. The site contains the Old Basilica and a Modern Basilica which was built in the 1970s as the Old Basilica was sinking due to the terrain on which CDMX is built. Following repairs, the Old Basilica is still open to the public to visit but the masses are mainly held in the Modern Basilica which can hold up to 10,000 people.

Old Basilica (left) and modern Basilica (right)

In the afternoon, we took a local bus about 25 miles outside of the city, to the Teotihuacán pyramids. The 2 main pyramids here are the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. I was quite surprised to find that we were allowed to scale both of them, as well as some of the smaller pyramids surrounding the site.

At Teotihuacán

We then went to a local obsidian shop, and stopped by a local hostelry where we tried pulque and tequila, and then went for dinner for some more genuine Mexican fare. After dinner we headed back to the city on the bus, and then I took the metro back to my hotel.

The next day was my final day in CDMX, though my flight wasn’t until late in the evening so I still had a full day to explore. I’d booked a ticket to the Frida Kahlo museum, and made my way there via the metro. The metro in Mexico City definitely has a reputation and as a solo female traveller I certainly had to have my wits about me. The front carriages on Metro trains are reserved for women and children only, and I used these when travelling on the metro by myself. I also wore my backpack on my front, as indeed many of the locals were doing. I didn’t feel unsafe, but I was well aware that I needed to look out for myself.

The Frida Kahlo museum is in her former house in Coyoacán, and is a bright azure blue. That, along with the queue, makes sure you can’t miss it! An incredibly interesting woman.

Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Museum, Coyoacán, Mexico City

So, in summary, Mexico City was well worth a couple of days on a stopover. Lots of history, great food and loads of interesting things to see. Definitely recommend!