2022 was the year I finally went across the sea to Ireland. I decided to go on the ferry and take my car with me. Living in South Wales, I headed over to Fishguard and took a Stena Line ferry over to Rosslare in southeast Ireland. Having never taken a vehicle on a ferry before, I was a little apprehensive and decided to head over to west Wales the previous day so I would not run into any traffic issues. As it turned out, my ferry was on the day of the Queen’s funeral and I encountered very little traffic on the 30 minute drive between Milford Haven and Fishguard. As a result I was at the ferry terminal very early, however, check in was very straightforward (number plate) and I was 5th in the queue which made for a swift exit at the other side,
A calm crossing, and 3 and a half hours later we pulled into Rosslare harbour in the late afternoon. After some not-entirely-foolproof border control (British citizens do not require a passport to travel in Ireland, question from the border guards as I drove off – ‘what’s your nationality’ and waved me through on my answer without having to produce any evidence), I drove the 20 minutes or so to Wexford and my first hotel of the trip – The Talbot. I went for a quick stroll around the town before dinner and then an earlyish night as I had a lot planned for the next day.
An early start to drive inland to Kilkenny. I took the scenic route which took a couple of hours, and parked up in the large central car park in Kilkenny mid morning. A very pretty town, I had a wander to St Canice’s Cathedral, and the down the Medieval Mile to Kilkenny Castle. After a scone and green tea I got back on the road and headed south to Waterford.
As I drove along the harbour front in Waterford, it really reminded me of being in Europe, and by that I mean continental Europe. For some reason I haven’t quite put my finger on, it reminded me of Bordeaux. A lovely, if brief, stroll around the picturesque streets before heading along the south coast to Cobh and eventually Cork.
In Cobh (pronounced Cove), I parked in the Cathedral car park (free when I visited) and had a wander. It’s a steep walk down to the shorefront. Another very pretty little town, loved the colourful houses, I walked east along the front for about 15 minutes, to the Titanic Memorial Garden (Cobh was the last stop the Titanic made).
From Cobh it was a short drive into Cork. I was staying in a funky modern hotel (The Dean Cork – as an aside, the first hotel I can remember staying in which provided tampons and sanitary towels in the rooms – kudos), next to the train station which was handy as there was no parking at the hotel. The good thing was I arrived in the evening so was able to find a parking space quite easily in Kent Station car park. The following morning when I left, it was jam-packed and APCOA were busy clamping vehicles which hadn’t paid, or had overstayed.
As I’d had a long day and arrived in the evening, I didn’t do much exploring that night. However, I had the following morning to have a wander around Cork. I went to St Fin Barre’s cathedral (after a false start where I’d put St Finbarr’s church into Google maps and ended up down a slightly dodgy-feeling side street).
St Fin Barre’s Cathedral interior was designed by William Burges, who designed the interiors of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch, and I could definitely see his signature style in the decoration.
I wandered back through the English Market and along the river before heading back on the road around lunchtime. My aim was Killarney, and I again went the scenic route, along the south coast, through Clonakilty, Skibbereen, Bantry, the Caha Pass, Kenmare and finally to Killarney.
After filling up at Tesco (both the car and some supplies), I headed to my home for the next 2 nights, a very cute glamping pod about a kilometre out of Killarney.
The next day was one of the highlights of my trip – the Ring Of Kerry. Sadly the weather was not looking that encouraging, so I delayed my start the next day to mid morning, after most of the weather had cleared. I drove in an anti-clockwise direction (top tip – this is the same way that the coaches drive so you are less likely to meet one head on. In my research for this trip, I read a lot of other blog posts that talked about driving in Ireland and the narrow roads. Most of them were from a North American perspective, and to be absolutely fair to them, the roads are significantly narrower than you generally find in North America, and you’re on the other side of the road (left), but if you are a Brit, the roads are absolutely fine and nothing you wouldn’t find in the UK).
First stop was in Killorglin, crossing the river and pulling into the first car park I came across. I don’t think I quite saw the best of Killorglin. After a very brief wander round some colourful buildings I hopped back in the car and carried on to my next stop at Rossbeigh Beach. A long stretch of rugged west-facing coast, perhaps a spit actually. By this point the weather had cheered up considerably.
Back in the car to carry on driving. I had a lunch stop at the Mountain Stage viewpoint before a further pit stop at Cahersiveen. Another stereotypically colourful Irish town. I then took in the additional loop of the Ring of Skellig. This was a smaller road, no buses, and in some spots it’s single track with passing places. But it is beautiful. Stopped off in Portmagee and at the Kerry Cliffs (€5) where the coastline is absolutely stunning.
After this I carried on to Sneem and to meet my cousin-in-law and his family for the first time which was really lovely. Dinner at the local pub before I headed back to Killarney through the National Park, just as the sun was setting. All in all a pretty epic day.
The next day it was off for another scenic drive to my home for the following night, Dingle and the Dingle Peninsula. My first stop was at Inch Beach, just as some very ominous grey clouds were about to dump their contents on the beach. A quick walk before a car picnic whilst the rain passed. As I carried on into the peninsula, the weather improved significantly and by the time I got my first glimpse of the colourful houses in Dingle, the sky was blue.
Beyond Dingle is the scenic Slea Head Drive. Not as touristy as the Ring of Kerry, and plenty of stunning coastline.
After an evening in Dingle involving fish and chips and the strains of live music in many of the pubs, I was up and off early the next day towards Limerick. The hotel I had booked in Limerick did not have any parking so I utilised a town centre multi-storey car park (€23 for 24 hours parking). At the time, many roads in the centre of Limerick were being dug up which meant a couple of false starts before finding the car park entrance.
I’d arrived in Limerick in the early afternoon and after checking into the hotel, I headed out and about. Firstly to the Hunt Museum, then to King John’s Castle, and finally to St Mary’s Cathedral. A very pleasant way to fill a Saturday afternoon.
Off again the next day, back out to the coast. I was on my way to Galway, but I stopped along the way at the Cliffs of Moher. A truly spectacular stretch of coastline. There was a large car park which was already filling up with cars and coaches by mid morning (though it was a Sunday at the tail end of the summer). There is a coastal path along the cliffs, and whilst the hoards gather around the visitor centre for views, you only have to walk about 10 minutes along the cliffs in either direction to get a more peaceful view. In the end I made a much longer walk of it, and had a good stretch of the legs along the cliffs for a couple of hours.
By mid afternoon I was back in the car and heading towards Galway for a 2 night stop. I was staying in a hotel in Salthill, slightly out of the main town. It was a gentle 25-30 minute walk along the prom to Galway itself, which I did the following morning. Galway is another very pretty town.
After Galway, it was a straight drive to Dublin for the final 2 nights of my trip. Driving in the centre of Dublin is not for the faint-hearted!! I think I ended up driving around the block 3 times before I managed to find somewhere to park in front of my hotel. I’d arrived late afternoon, and as it was now the end of September, it was a little on the cool side. I went for a wander around the city centre, to get my bearings before a day of sightseeing the next day.
Made it to Temple Bar for a photo, but not a drink. The following day I saw Dublin Castle, several cathedrals, headed into an art gallery during a downpour, and meandered along the river to find the Spire
My final day was a drive down the coast back to Rosslare for the ferry. I stopped off in Bray for a coffee and a stroll and then later on at the beautiful Brittas Bay Beach before heading off for my early evening ferry back to Wales.
All in all I really loved this road trip. Part of me can’t believe I’d never been to Ireland even though it’s so close. Taking the ferry was so straightforward, I’d definitely do it again.
catsgreatadventure 