Whistler and Kelowna

First full day of the group trip and we started with a final drive through the main sights of Vancouver before heading north on the Sea to Sky Highway, which took us on the stunningly beautiful drive between Vancouver and Whistler. We stopped off at a couple of spots on the way – Shannon Falls, lunch in Squamish and a short hike just outside of Whistler called the Train Wreck hike, where a number of train carriages were dragged into the woods after a train crash in the 1950s. They’ve all subsequently been covered in graffiti. It’s a fun, short hike and good to stretch the legs.

We arrived in Whistler in the mid afternoon and I enjoyed a wander around the town. With its wooden lodges, wide array of restaurants, cafes and drinking venues and bustling streets, it did remind me of several other ski resort towns I’ve been to over time, though I’ve yet to actually go to one during ski season!

A delicious dinner at The Brickworks (slow cooked bison) with some Canadian wine, which was a noticeable feature on wine lists on my trip. I’m not sure I’ve ever really clocked Canadian wine in the UK but I’ll certainly be looking out for it in the future.

Everyone had different plans the next day. A couple of us started with a visit to the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Center where there was a video and guided tour informing us about the indigenous populations of this region, the Squamish and the Lil’wat. We learnt about how they live off the land and what the mountains and forests in this region mean to these peoples. There were also exhibits depicting the traditional ways of life which were really interesting, I’d definitely recommend a visit if you’re in Whistler.

Afterwards I took the gondola up Blackcomb mountain to get to the Peak2Peak gondola, which crosses the valley between Blackcomb and Whistler mountains. Some spectacular views on this gondola, which is the longest unsupported cable span in the world. It takes 11 minutes to cross between the 2 mountains. After taking some photos, I went for a short wander before taking the chair lift up to the top of Whistler mountain. On the way I bumped into some of my fellow group travellers who were on their way back down and off to do some zip lining which is very popular activity here.

I’d never been on a chair lift before, and was clinging onto my rucksack as though my life depended on it! But I negotiated it safely and was deposited at the top of Whistler mountain, where you can then make your way across the Cloudraker Skybridge which was really quite wobbly in the middle! There are a bunch of hiking routes up here, and whilst some other group members opted to do some longer hikes, I stuck to a short one which did give good 360 views from the mountain. It was quite hazy due to wildfires in the region, so I don’t have the sharpest photos but I will never tire of looking at mountains.

I made my way back down the Whistler mountain gondola and back to Whistler village in the mid afternoon where I found a cafe for a cuppa and a cookie. I filled the rest of the afternoon with a bit of retail therapy before relaxing by the pool at the hotel. In the evening, our guide drove us a short distance to Creekside where we got takeaway Japanese/Korean food and sat watching the sunset over the water – so serene. I really liked Whistler, definitely somewhere I could go back to and spend a few more days exploring.

The next day was a relatively long driving day (though nothing compared to those in Zambia, Malawi and Tanzania!!) as we left Whistler and drove to Kelowna. It was such a beautiful drive, with pockets of snow hanging on to the tops of the mountains and milky blue rivers cutting through the landscape. We stopped for a picnic lunch at Seton Lake which was a simply stunning backdrop to enjoy my cheese and crackers!!

There have been lots of wildfires in this region, and as we continued after lunch, it steadily got more smoky and hazy. The landscape also changed, it looked a lot drier, more arid, and more rolling than mountainous, with brush a bit more like you’d find in desert regions. A type of landscape I don’t think I’d ever considered I’d find in Canada.

There are some hills in the distance, behind the smoke

We had a brief coffee stop in Kamloops (my second visit after the very brief fresh air break on the train) before continuing on and arriving in Kelowna in the late afternoon. Kelowna has a very beautiful setting, on a lake and surrounded by more mountains. It was quite hazy with the smoke which made for a moody sunset which we watched from the open air top floor of a local restaurant.

A leisurely morning in Kelowna where I had a wander around the town and lakefront before we headed off to a local winery in the late morning for a spot of wine tasting. We had a glass of fizz, 2 whites and a red. As usual, I much preferred the whites! After a reasonable amount of wine, it was back to the lakefront in Kelowna for a picnic lunch arranged by our guide before we hit the road for the drive to Revelstoke which was basically an overnight stop before we continued east into Alberta – more on that next time!

Vancouver

I’d arrived on the train nice and early so basically ended up with 4 days to explore Vancouver. After dropping my bags at the hotel (far too early for check in), I had some breakfast and then headed off to the VanDusen botanical gardens for a very nice wander. And a bargain at $16!

VanDusen Botanical Gardens

By the time I’d finished wandering, my room was ready (a much appreciated early check in) so after freshening up after being booted off the train too early for a shower, I then went in search of lunch before going to the Art Gallery in the afternoon. Still preferred the one in Ottawa!

I then headed to the waterfront and wandered through Gastown which seemed a very lively area before meeting some friends for dinner in Yaletown. There is so much amazing Asian food in Vancouver and so we went for sushi – delicious!

Gastown

The next day I had a long walk around the seawall from Yaletown to Granville Island. It probably took about 90 minutes. One thing I’ve noticed in Vancouver is that on paths like this, pedestrians and cyclists are fully segregated which makes for a much more pleasant walk as I’m not having to keep and eye or ear out for cyclists coming past. The same is true in Stanley Park as well. And moreover, people respect it.

I arrived at Granville Island in time for lunch and went to Sandbar for some seafood which had been recommended to me. It was delicious and definitely a good recommendation. Coming out of the restaurant I bumped into some folks from the train – small world!

After a wander through the market, I headed back to Yaletown on the aquabus ferry which crosses the harbour to various stops every few minutes.

I went back to the hotel for what was meant to be a short rest but ended up being over 2 hours as I had a long nap!

I’d made a friend on the train and we met for dinner that evening which was nice. I don’t mind eating by myself, especially when I’m travelling but it is nice to have a dining companion.

The next morning started with laundry, only $9 again, a relative bargain I would say! Afterwards I went to the Bill Reid Gallery of Indigenous Art on my way to Stanley Park. Stanley Park is absolutely massive so I only explored a small part, on the eastern side to the Totem Poles and then around the seawall and back to the city.

Totem Poles in Stanley Park

Later that afternoon I went over to Kitsilano, to the Museum of Vancouver which was pretty interesting, and then meeting my train buddy for dinner and a slightly random evening watching an open air variety show put on by the local Chinese community. Certainly an interesting evening! And accompanied by a beautiful, if hazy sunset over the water.

Kitsilano Beach

My final day in Vancouver the next day and a change of hotel in time to start a group trip through the Rockies. Before the meet up in the evening, I spent the morning wandering around the Main Street area which seemed a pretty cool neighbourhood with lots of murals, coffee shops and eateries.

After a lovely sushi lunch, I headed towards Chinatown and the Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden which was a surprisingly tranquil space amidst the hubbub of the city.

Chinese gardens

That evening I met up with the group who I’d be spending the next week travelling through the Rockies with. We had dinner at a restaurant on the waterfront as we got to know each other before the week ahead.

Vancouver Olympic torch

Overall I really liked Vancouver. I did a lot of walking, it’s a very easy city to walk around, there’s lots to do and there’s so much good food here. Next up, Whistler.

The Canadian from Toronto to Vancouver

I’ve wanted to take the train across Canada for a long time. I’ve met Canadians on my travels over the years who have suggested it’s a bit dull especially in the middle, but more recently I’ve met Canadians who have been enthused about my trip.

There are various different types of sleeping arrangements at various different costs on the train. I booked a cabin for 1, which are in high demand, and as I was travelling during August, I’d actually booked this trip a year ago as soon as the tickets for the departure date had been released. So it had been a long time coming.

I arrived at Toronto’s Union Station at about 8.30am on a Sunday morning, ready for a 9.55am departure. After checking in my main luggage (only carry-on size can be with you on the train, big bags have to be checked in), it was off to the business lounge to be checked in for the train and to select my meal sittings for the day – early/mid/late, with each sitting lasting around an hour and a quarter. I opted for mid which is the most popular with lunch served around 12.30pm and dinner at around 6.45pm.

Boarding started about 30 minutes before departure and after being shown to my cosy cabinette, the attendant for the carriage came round to explain various things in the cabin and on the train including how sensitive the toilets were (and this was reiterated several times a day!!). After a short safety briefing I was free to roam around the train.

My cabin. Spot the loo!

First up, I went to the dome viewing car to watch us depart out of Toronto for the approx. 2700 mile / 4400 km journey to Vancouver. This was accompanied by a complementary glass of fizz – cheers!

After settling into the journey it was time for lunch. Every day it was a 3 course affair with soup of the day, a different choice of 4 mains every day and a choice of 2 desserts. Soft drinks, tea and coffee was included in the price I paid, alcohol was extra. The food was great and you certainly don’t go hungry!

In the afternoon I headed back to my cabin, which had a big (and crucially clean) picture window so spent the afternoon watching the Ontario scenery go by. After we got out of the city, it was mostly forests either side of the train, as well as lakes, as we headed north around Lake Huron.

We had a ‘fresh air’ break in the evening for around 20 minutes in Capreol. A good opportunity to stretch the legs too as there’s only so many times I can walk from my cabin to the activity car for a cup of tea!

Dinner was another 3 course affair with choice of soup or salad to start, choice of 4 mains (which changed every day) and choice of 2 desserts. The quality of the food and the way the meal services were organised was very impressive.

I was rocked to sleep that evening by the movement of the train. I’ve previously not slept at all well on various trains in Australia and South East Asia but I did get a much better sleep here, thankfully, as I have 4 nights to sleep through!

The next morning we woke to a continuation of the trees, tall pines and firs, and then passing beautiful blue lakes.

Breakfast is on a first-come-first-served basis between 6.30am-8.30am with a choice of breakfast options plus juice, tea and coffee. Mornings aren’t my forte so I opted for a post-8am breakfast, which coincided with a quieter dining car. After that it was back to the daily life on board. Activities are put on through the day including talks about the train and the provinces we pass through, bingo, quizzes and beer and wine tasting. There are also jigsaws and other games in the activity car to keep us entertained. I’d downloaded some books and movies and also brought a puzzle book with me to keep me entertained when I wasn’t looking out of the window.

I don’t think I’d ever appreciated how big Ontario is. We were still in Ontario in early evening on the second day! By 8.30pm we had arrived into Winnipeg, Manitoba for a slightly longer leg stretch – 45 minutes. This was enough time for a very quick walk around The Forks park and market, and also to admire the beautiful domed ceiling of the railway station.

Back on board and off to sleep. Manitoba passed by overnight and in the morning I awoke to the open farmland in Saskatchewan. Lots of neat bales of hay dotted across the fields. I was a bit surprised by the landscape here, not as flat as I’d imagined the prairies to be. Rolling hills and very green.

Another fresh air break at Saskatoon in the early afternoon. And then more puzzles, reading and scenery for the rest of the day. We arrived into Edmonton at around 10pm for a longer break but given the time of night, and that the station was not close to the centre of Edmonton, I just had a walk up and down the platform to stretch my legs.

The next morning I awoke early to find we’d already arrived in Jasper. This was another long stop so I was up and dressed before 8am for a wander around the small town. Not much open at this time in the morning, and it was a little cloudy so I didn’t get the best view of the surroundings. It very much reminded me a small towns in national parks in the US. A very particular style of buildings. Back on the train by 9.30am and off for what everyone says is the most scenic part of this journey, through the Rockies.

I’ve been fortunate to see some very impressive mountain scenery over the years, in New Zealand, the US and Norway to name a few. I was a bit worried that I’d find the Rockies underwhelming. But I’m happy to say I was completely wrong. The weather had also perked up after the cloud in Jasper and we followed rivers, and beautiful, perfectly vertical (cedar?) trees through the valleys and mountains. My phone is absolutely full of photos and videos. I was trying to appreciate it with my own eyes but every time I thought I’d taken enough videos, another beautiful view presented itself.

This evening’s fresh air stop at Kamloops coincided with dinner so I only had 5 minutes for a leg stretch. But the rest of the evening was great fun as I enjoyed the scenery in the Prestige car bar at the very rear of the train (usually reversed for those who’ve paid the most money, non-Prestige sleeper passengers – like me – are allowed in after 5pm) with a number of my fellow travellers. It’s such a social experience, even if you are on your own. You get seated with others at mealtimes and everyone is happy to strike up a conversation, hear about travel plans and admire the scenery.

We arrived into Vancouver at 5.20am the next morning though thankfully we did not have to be off the train until 8am. At various points on the journey we were 2-3 hours behind schedule as freight trains have priority on the tracks, but we arrived over an hour early into Vancouver.

I was quite sad to say goodbye to my little cabin and the daily life on the train. It was a really fabulous journey, watching the scenery change from the forests and lakes in Ontario, through the Prairies of Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta and finally to the Rockies in British Columbia. An experience I will never forget.

Toronto

Back on the train, this time for about 5 hours from Ottawa to Toronto. Another very pleasant experience in Viarail business class with lunch and drinks provided.

I arrived into Toronto’s Union Station in time for the evening rush hour so I walked the 20 minutes to the hostel I was staying at. After checking in and dropping my bags I headed out for an evening wander which was cut short by rain. I’d left my brolly at the hostel so ended up diving into a restaurant for dinner whilst I waited for the rain to pass.

It was still doing a bit after dinner so I retreated back to the hostel for the evening.

I’d devised myself a bit of an itinerary for downtown so I started the next morning at Graffiti Alley before heading to the Kensington Market area, which for some reason reminded me of Haight Ashbury in San Francisco.

After that it was the art gallery (I preferred the one I went to in Ottawa), a walk past City Hall and down to the waterfront, where I had a Beavertail – deep-fried dough with sugar and cinnamon and then in this instance with apple and caramel on top, very messy to eat!! I rounded off my long walk at St Lawrence Market before meandering slowly back to the hostel via a supermarket for some takeaway dinner.

The next morning started with laundry, unavoidable when travelling for more than a couple of weeks. But I’d found a reasonably priced laundrette a short walk from the hostel (the hostel wanted $20 for laundry, it cost me $9.50 at the laundrette) so I got there reasonably early and was done in just over an hour.

I’d booked myself a 60 minute cruise on the harbour in the afternoon so made my way to the waterfront for some lunch and people watching before the cruise. Just as I got on board, some very threatening clouds loomed large but thankfully they held off.

You get a fantastic view of downtown Toronto from the water, including the CN Tower which is in danger of being completely overshadowed by numerous taller skyscrapers being constructed all around it.

The cruise also went over towards the Toronto islands, and is also in the flight path of the Toronto City Airport so there were numerous small planes coming in to land over our heads.

Overall a very pleasant way to spend an hour on a Saturday afternoon.

A long stroll back to the hostel via the enormous Eaton Center Mall and I called it a day after a lot of walking in Toronto.

Toronto felt like the most American city so far in Canada. Particularly with all the skyscrapers in downtown, you absolutely could be in New York. Lots to do, and with a few extra days I may have made it out onto the islands. Niagara Falls is also pretty close by, but I’ve seen them on a previous trip and didn’t feel the need to see them again this time round.

I spent the evening doing a full rearranging of my bags as, next up, is 4 days on a train with only my hand luggage for company…

Montreal and Ottawa

Rather excitingly I can now fly to Canada directly from Cardiff. WestJet fly 4 times a week between May and September. So off I went on a Saturday morning to the easiest airport in the world to get through. The only downside is there is very little to do at Cardiff airport, and the flight was delayed by an hour.

But anyway, we eventually left on an 8 hour flight to Toronto on a narrowbody (1 aisle and only 2 toilets for the 150+ of us in economy), and no seat back entertainment screens. But, free WiFi which worked! Worked so well in fact that about 2 hours before landing, I discovered that my connecting flight to Montreal had been cancelled (WestJet cabin crew were having a labour dispute) so I spent the time looking at my options. I knew the train was an option as I would be making my way back from Montreal to Toronto on the train over the next week, but the last train that day had already departed. All other flights from Toronto to Montreal were over $1000 CAD (about £500). The last option was the bus. And there was a Megabus leaving Union Station at 6pm that would get to Montreal at 1.30am. Not absolutely ideal but my original flight was due into Montreal at 12.30am so if this worked, I’d be at the hotel at probably the same time I would have been had everything gone to the original plan.

I was prepped and ready when I got off the plane, my bag was there on the belt and I hot-footed it on the UP train from the airport to Union Station, buying my bus ticket online on the way. I arrived at the Union Station Bus Terminal at about 5.30pm and was very glad to see the bus turn up slightly after 6pm. My body clock was at 11pm at this point and I did my best to try and get some sleep on the bus. Not entirely sure it was successful, and I was so pleased to see us pulling into the bus terminal in Montreal shortly after 1am. After checking into the hotel, I collapsed into bed at 1.40am, slightly over 24 hours after I’d woken up at home in Cardiff.

After a pretty decent sleep, I was up and ready to explore Montreal. I was staying on the edge of Chinatown, close to the Vieux-Port (Old Port). I had a leisurely wander around including to the Notre Dame cathedral, along the waterfront of the old port, and to the clock tower before going in search of some lunch. This search coincided with a downpour so I jumped into the nearest bar and had the Québécois classic, poutine. Basically chips, gravy and cheese curds. All washed down in this instance with some Canada Dry ginger ale. Not sure I could get more Canadian!!

It was still raining when I’d finished so after quite a lot of walking in the morning, I headed back to the hotel for a rest before a second wander in the late afternoon after it had kinda stopped the worst of the rain. I headed through Chinatown and towards the financial district which was relatively quiet on this Sunday.

An early night with the jet lag catching up with me, so I was up and at it relatively early the next day though sadly the weather was even worse, so I was looking for indoor activities. I headed out on the metro to the Olympic Park, to the Biodome. Unfortunately a lot of other people had the same idea and it was very crowded, and in hindsight probably not worth visiting if I was here again, but it did keep me dry for an hour. I’d also hoped to go to the Jardin botanique but the weather was not playing ball at all.

I got back on the metro and stopped off at Plateau Mont Royal, and then to the Jean Talon market which wasn’t super-busy on a wet Monday. I do enjoy wandering around local markets wherever I go, I think it really helps to get a sense of the places you’re visiting.

Montreal has an Underground City, which makes sense when you consider how cold it gets in the winter. It was a glorified shopping mall though, I much preferred Sapporo’s version.

After that it was back to the hotel for dinner and a rest after clocking up a whole lot of steps over the last couple of days.

Up early again the following day (still jet lagged). The weather was so much nicer so after breakfast and before my train to Ottawa, I retraced some of my steps around the Old Port and Waterfront, for some blue sky pictures.

By mid morning I was off to the Gare Centrale for my train to Ottawa. I’ve written a few times about the trains I’ve taken on my travels this year, all of which put trains in the UK to shame. And Viarail in Canada is no different. I’ve booked a business class ticket for the slightly over 2 hour journey to Ottawa, for £78, which includes a nice seat, 3 course lunch and drinks including wine. And the WiFi works on the train! The equivalent train in the UK would be well over £200, you might get some snacks thrown at you and the WiFi certainly doesn’t work!

I arrived into a hot and sunny Ottawa by mid afternoon, though we were about 30 minutes late. This did mean that I was able to check in straight away when I arrived at the hotel in downtown Ottawa. I had a bit of a wander and then in the evening I met up with my roommate from my Thailand and Malaysia trip from earlier this year, who lives here in Ottawa. We went for a cold dip in the river at NCC River House, a free outdoor swimming area on the Ottawa River. We weren’t in the water too long (it was cold!!), but the air temperature was lovely so we sat out and chatted for ages before deciding we should go and find some food for dinner.

The next morning I started with a walk to the nearby Parliament buildings where at 10am every morning during the summer, the Changing of the Guard happens. As a Brit, this was all very familiar, as were the surroundings as the buildings certainly appear to be modelled on the UK Houses of Parliament (I’m sure someone will correct me here!). I didn’t stay for the whole ceremony as it was very warm, and so after a wander around the parliament buildings, I headed for some air conditioning in the form of the National Gallery of Canada. As I’ve got older, I’ve decided a quite enjoy wandering around an art gallery. This one had some interesting indigenous art, as well as other European and North American art. It also had an exhibition of Canadian artist Helen McNicoll, an impressionist, which I really enjoyed.

After that, I walked to the Byward Market for a little browsing and a late lunch followed by a Tim Hortons. In the evening I met up with my friend again, and some of her friends, as we enjoyed fireworks as part of a competition from a pub on the water. All very relaxing.

So, my first impressions of Canada. Montreal was unfortunately a bit damp and I’m not sure I saw the best of it. It is certainly a French-first city and I did manage to dredge up some of my schoolkid French to bumble through. When it was sunny on the final morning, it felt like a place I’d like to stay longer if it was dry. Ottawa had the benefit of being gloriously sunny (in fact a bit too hot at times) while I was there. It is officially bilingual, so my haltering French was less called for here. I really liked the vibe in Ottawa, a calmer city I think, very walkable. And the biggest plus of all to catch up with my friend.

Now, onwards back to Toronto…