Hierapolis, Ephesus, Troy and Gallipoli

After a few days by the Med, it was time to head inland, firstly to Pamukkale, where we started with lunch overlooking the travertine terraces, which are beautiful white terraces formed by calcium carbonate hardening on the cliffs over time. After lunch we drove up to the site of Hierapolis, at the top of the travertines. I didn’t know much about Hierapolis prior to this trip but I really enjoyed the afternoon we had exploring the enormous site. It was a city of around 120,000 people so it is, understandably, quite large. The most impressive sight for me was the theatre, which has been very well restored. It’s a bit of a hike up to it but the view when you enter the top of the theatre and look down is really quite incredible.

It is possible to walk down the travertines and back to Pamukkale, but you have to do so in bare feet to help protect the terraces. I didn’t massively fancy that as it looked quite painful on the feet, so it was back to the bus for the journey back down.

Dinner at the hotel as there’s not a massive amount of choice in Pamukkale, especially at the end of the season. The weather had started turning too, and a downpour greeted us at the end of the day.

Off to Selçuk the next day for a 2 night stay. We arrived by lunchtime and a few of us firstly went to St John’s Basilica whilst it wasn’t raining. It is believed that St John came to this area with the Virgin Mary after Jesus’ death, and so this area is a very important site in Christianity. There were a few other visitors not put off by the weather. Quite an interesting site, and we could also walk up to the citadel which gave us a great view of the area.

After a delicious pide (Turkish pizza) late lunch, I hid from the rain in the hotel until dinner where it had thankfully stopped raining. Sea bass for dinner, very much enjoying the seafood in Türkiye.

The next morning we joined the hoards from the cruise ships on a morning tour of Ephesus. Hierapolis was impressive but Ephesus is on a different scale. The mosaics, the library and the Terrace Houses were my highlights.

Afterwards we visited the remains of the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. There’s only one column remaining, plus some foundations, but it’s pretty cool to see.

The remains of the Temple of Artemis

We then had a free afternoon before I had a slightly disappointing hammam. Could have done with a firmer scrub!!

We left Selçuk the next day and visited a carpet workshop, very similar to the carpet shops I’d visited in recent weeks in Central Asia, where they did their best to sell expensive carpets to us. Others purchased, I didn’t.

After a short stop in the city of Ayvalik to visit a G Adventures-supported women’s cooperative where they create products out of recycled material, we then headed to the ancient city of Troy (complete with modern wooden horse!). Of the ancient sites in this section of the trip, Troy is the least excavated and restored, and consequently much quieter than both Ephesus and Hierapolis.

Afterwards we made our way to our hotel for the evening in Çanakkale. A final seafood dinner before an early ferry the next morning over to the Gallipoli peninsula. We started at Anzac Cove, and then visited an Australian memorial and Lone Pine, and we were the only visitors at both places. We also visited a Turkish memorial and Chunuk Bair where there is a large statue of Ataturk commemorating his accomplishments during the war. Certainly more people at both of these. A very poignant morning.

After lunch we drove on some very quiet motorways back to Istanbul, where it was distinctly less quiet. And it was also raining heavily. We had a final dinner that evening at a rooftop restaurant in the old town, thankfully one with a covered roof!

I really loved this trip through Türkiye. I picked it for the variety of things we would see – scenery in Cappadocia, culture in Istanbul and Konya, the coast in Antalya and Kaş and the history at Hierapolis, Ephesus, Troy and Çatalhöyük. A fascinating country, and I’m sure I’ll be back.

Konya, Antalya and Kaş

We headed out of Cappadocia the next day, and headed towards Konya. We made a stop along the way at the Sulthanhani caravanserai, a reminder that my Silk Road journey didn’t really end in the Stans. It is a beautifully preserved caravanserai and we had about 45 minutes exploring, and enjoying a cup of tea at the cafe.

We arrived into Konya around lunchtime. Konya is one of the more conservative areas of Türkiye that we would be visiting, and we were going to the Mevlana Mausoleum, so legs, shoulders and hair (for women) needed to be covered. The Mevlana Mausoleum itself was overrun with tour groups, but there were smaller rooms in the complex explaining the history of dervishes which was pretty interesting, especially having now seen the Whirling Dervishes ceremony in Cappadocia.

After lunch in Konya, we continued towards our next overnight destination, a homestay in the small village of Gunirseyer. On the way we stopped at Çatalhöyük, a neolithic settlement – possibly the first city in the world – dated to around 7500 BC. The houses are basically all joined together with no roads or alleys between them, and it’s believed they moved around on the roofs of the houses. It’s absolutely incredible to think about the age of this settlement and that people were here over 9000 years ago!

Çatalhöyük

We arrived at the homestay in the early evening. One of the things I really like about G Adventures trips is that they really embrace local living and community tourism. We had a delicious dinner (the best food I’d had so far in Türkiye) and then spent the evening with the family. I spent quite a lot of time entertaining their 5 year old grandson playing with toy cars!

We continued heading south towards the coast the next day. A beautiful drive through the Taurus mountains. We arrived in Antalya in the afternoon. A surprisingly (to me) large city. We spent most of the afternoon wandering in the old town, which I really enjoyed. Narrow, higgledy-piggledy streets, little alleyways, lots of bars, restaurants and little shops. We watched the sunset near the harbour and then had dinner at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the water. Bliss.

The next day we had an afternoon boat trip along the Mediterranean coast, with a couple of swimming stops and a delicious lunch of barbecued sea bream. An afternoon aboard a boat with a glass of vino in the (very) late summer is a pretty good way to spend the day.

We ended the day in the small coastal town of Kaş, where we would be staying for 2 nights. We had a free day the next day and I spent the morning wandering the narrow streets of the small town. A baklava lunch before a relaxing afternoon in the hotel – a bit of needed downtime after being on the go for a while. In the evening we watched the sunset (unfortunately covered by cloud) from the amphitheatre before dinner and drinks at a seafood restaurant.

Next, onwards inland to more history…

Istanbul and Cappadocia

My 6th time through Istanbul airport (and 5th time this year), and I am finally leaving it to explore a new country, Türkiye. A mid afternoon flight from Tashkent arrived in Istanbul in the early evening and after clearing the border and collecting my bags, I got a transfer to the hotel in the old town which was about a 50 minute journey.

I was ready to start exploring Istanbul the next morning as I had a couple of days before my next trip started. I began with a walk uphill (hard to avoid in the old town), towards the Grand Bazaar. I have to say it was nothing like I expected it to be. I expected more of a bustling market selling everything, but it felt more of a tourist trap and the same things being sold on repeat.

Afterwards I walked to the Spice (Egyptian) market which felt slightly less of a tourist trap, and had a bit more atmosphere with the spices and Turkish Delight being sold.

I walked across Galata bridge, and passed many people fishing off the bridge into the waters of the Bosphorus. After an enormous croissant and an hibiscus tea, it was back to the old town for a walking tour I’d booked, to the Aya Sofia (formerly Hagia Sofia), the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern. The Aya Sofia is currently undergoing renovations so not quite at her best but has an interesting history having been both a church and a mosque. There are some incredible frescos depicting Christ and the Virgin Mary.

The Blue Mosque was absolutely stunning inside. The most incredible tilework, and you can certainly see where it gets its name from!

Basilica cistern was the final part of the walking tour, and is a huge cavernous cistern under the streets of the old town. It reminded me of the Roman Baths in Bath, though the architecture isn’t Roman.

The next day I went to Topkapi Palace early, and went straight to the Harem before too many of the crowds arrived, which was definitely a good decision. Beautiful tilework, interesting exhibits, I spent a good 3 hours there and the queues were somewhat larger by the time I’d finished.

That evening I met the group for my final tour of my midlife crisis gap year. We went for dinner at a restaurant overlooking the Blue Mosque which was a pretty cool vantage point.

We still had some time in Istanbul the next morning before heading out of the city so I had a relatively leisurely morning of wandering around Gülhane Park and enjoying some excellent chocolate baklava. After some pretty average baklava in the Uzbekistan it was nice to have some really good Turkish baklava.

We headed east out of the city in the afternoon, ultimately heading to Cappadocia though we would have an overnight stop in Bolu along the way. The hotel was surprisingly busy for a Monday night, with a teachers conference and dinner/dance going on.

We started the next day heading to Ankara, the capital of Türkiye, and to the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. This is an impressively grand structure and plaza which was busy with visiting schoolchildren and tourists. There was also a very interesting museum within the mausoleum about how Ataturk defined modern Türkiye after the fall of the Ottoman Empire.

Atatürk mausoleum

Lunch and then onwards to Cappadocia. We made a stop at Tuz Golu salt lake, a quite incredible glimmering sight where you could walk out on the salt flats for miles before reaching the water.

Tuz Golu salt lake

We arrived at our accommodation in the village of Mustafapaşa in Cappadocia in the evening. We stayed in a ‘cave’ hotel built into a steep hillside which was quite cool, though some people were struggling with the 100+ steps to the rooms with their luggage.

We had dinner with a family who had relocated to this region after the huge earthquake in southern Türkiye a few years ago. It was quite nice to have some home cooked food rather than the various versions of kebabs I’ve been eating in this part of the world.

The next morning we had our first proper look at the ‘fairy chimneys’ that Cappadocia is famous for, walking among them. They really are quite strange geological features, which people use as houses and storage.

Lunch in Göreme followed by a free afternoon before a folk show dinner and dancing in the evening which was very enjoyable.

We started the next day at Derinkuyu underground city, an ancient city burrowed into the earth in layers, which apparently housed up to 20,000 people at its peak. There are several underground cities in this region and this is the largest excavated to date. It’s absolutely incredible to think about the work that went into creating this many centuries ago.

Derinkuyu underground city

Afterwards we went to Göreme Open Air museum which showcases churches and dwellings carved out of the rocks and fairy chimneys in Cappadocia. The churches have some incredible frescos in them.

We had a few photo stops on the way back to Mustafapaşan and then in the evening I went to a Whirling Dervish observation. It wasn’t a show or a performance, but part of their ritual. It lasted about 50 minutes and it was quite mesmerising to watch. Those of us from the group who went to the observance all agreed it was quite powerful.

Our short stay in Cappadocia was over the next day and we started heading south, towards the Mediterranean coast.