Back on the train, this time for about 5 hours from Ottawa to Toronto. Another very pleasant experience in Viarail business class with lunch and drinks provided.
I arrived into Toronto’s Union Station in time for the evening rush hour so I walked the 20 minutes to the hostel I was staying at. After checking in and dropping my bags I headed out for an evening wander which was cut short by rain. I’d left my brolly at the hostel so ended up diving into a restaurant for dinner whilst I waited for the rain to pass.
It was still doing a bit after dinner so I retreated back to the hostel for the evening.
I’d devised myself a bit of an itinerary for downtown so I started the next morning at Graffiti Alley before heading to the Kensington Market area, which for some reason reminded me of Haight Ashbury in San Francisco.
Graffiti Alley
After that it was the art gallery (I preferred the one I went to in Ottawa), a walk past City Hall and down to the waterfront, where I had a Beavertail – deep-fried dough with sugar and cinnamon and then in this instance with apple and caramel on top, very messy to eat!! I rounded off my long walk at St Lawrence Market before meandering slowly back to the hostel via a supermarket for some takeaway dinner.
The next morning started with laundry, unavoidable when travelling for more than a couple of weeks. But I’d found a reasonably priced laundrette a short walk from the hostel (the hostel wanted $20 for laundry, it cost me $9.50 at the laundrette) so I got there reasonably early and was done in just over an hour.
I’d booked myself a 60 minute cruise on the harbour in the afternoon so made my way to the waterfront for some lunch and people watching before the cruise. Just as I got on board, some very threatening clouds loomed large but thankfully they held off.
You get a fantastic view of downtown Toronto from the water, including the CN Tower which is in danger of being completely overshadowed by numerous taller skyscrapers being constructed all around it.
The cruise also went over towards the Toronto islands, and is also in the flight path of the Toronto City Airport so there were numerous small planes coming in to land over our heads.
Overall a very pleasant way to spend an hour on a Saturday afternoon.
A long stroll back to the hostel via the enormous Eaton Center Mall and I called it a day after a lot of walking in Toronto.
Toronto felt like the most American city so far in Canada. Particularly with all the skyscrapers in downtown, you absolutely could be in New York. Lots to do, and with a few extra days I may have made it out onto the islands. Niagara Falls is also pretty close by, but I’ve seen them on a previous trip and didn’t feel the need to see them again this time round.
I spent the evening doing a full rearranging of my bags as, next up, is 4 days on a train with only my hand luggage for company…
Rather excitingly I can now fly to Canada directly from Cardiff. WestJet fly 4 times a week between May and September. So off I went on a Saturday morning to the easiest airport in the world to get through. The only downside is there is very little to do at Cardiff airport, and the flight was delayed by an hour.
But anyway, we eventually left on an 8 hour flight to Toronto on a narrowbody (1 aisle and only 2 toilets for the 150+ of us in economy), and no seat back entertainment screens. But, free WiFi which worked! Worked so well in fact that about 2 hours before landing, I discovered that my connecting flight to Montreal had been cancelled (WestJet cabin crew were having a labour dispute) so I spent the time looking at my options. I knew the train was an option as I would be making my way back from Montreal to Toronto on the train over the next week, but the last train that day had already departed. All other flights from Toronto to Montreal were over $1000 CAD (about £500). The last option was the bus. And there was a Megabus leaving Union Station at 6pm that would get to Montreal at 1.30am. Not absolutely ideal but my original flight was due into Montreal at 12.30am so if this worked, I’d be at the hotel at probably the same time I would have been had everything gone to the original plan.
I was prepped and ready when I got off the plane, my bag was there on the belt and I hot-footed it on the UP train from the airport to Union Station, buying my bus ticket online on the way. I arrived at the Union Station Bus Terminal at about 5.30pm and was very glad to see the bus turn up slightly after 6pm. My body clock was at 11pm at this point and I did my best to try and get some sleep on the bus. Not entirely sure it was successful, and I was so pleased to see us pulling into the bus terminal in Montreal shortly after 1am. After checking into the hotel, I collapsed into bed at 1.40am, slightly over 24 hours after I’d woken up at home in Cardiff.
After a pretty decent sleep, I was up and ready to explore Montreal. I was staying on the edge of Chinatown, close to the Vieux-Port (Old Port). I had a leisurely wander around including to the Notre Dame cathedral, along the waterfront of the old port, and to the clock tower before going in search of some lunch. This search coincided with a downpour so I jumped into the nearest bar and had the Québécois classic, poutine. Basically chips, gravy and cheese curds. All washed down in this instance with some Canada Dry ginger ale. Not sure I could get more Canadian!!
Notre Dame catherdralThe clock towerPoutine and Canada Dry
It was still raining when I’d finished so after quite a lot of walking in the morning, I headed back to the hotel for a rest before a second wander in the late afternoon after it had kinda stopped the worst of the rain. I headed through Chinatown and towards the financial district which was relatively quiet on this Sunday.
An early night with the jet lag catching up with me, so I was up and at it relatively early the next day though sadly the weather was even worse, so I was looking for indoor activities. I headed out on the metro to the Olympic Park, to the Biodome. Unfortunately a lot of other people had the same idea and it was very crowded, and in hindsight probably not worth visiting if I was here again, but it did keep me dry for an hour. I’d also hoped to go to the Jardin botanique but the weather was not playing ball at all.
The Biodome and Montreal Tower at the Olympic Park
I got back on the metro and stopped off at Plateau Mont Royal, and then to the Jean Talon market which wasn’t super-busy on a wet Monday. I do enjoy wandering around local markets wherever I go, I think it really helps to get a sense of the places you’re visiting.
Montreal has an Underground City, which makes sense when you consider how cold it gets in the winter. It was a glorified shopping mall though, I much preferred Sapporo’s version.
After that it was back to the hotel for dinner and a rest after clocking up a whole lot of steps over the last couple of days.
Up early again the following day (still jet lagged). The weather was so much nicer so after breakfast and before my train to Ottawa, I retraced some of my steps around the Old Port and Waterfront, for some blue sky pictures.
By mid morning I was off to the Gare Centrale for my train to Ottawa. I’ve written a few times about the trains I’ve taken on my travels this year, all of which put trains in the UK to shame. And Viarail in Canada is no different. I’ve booked a business class ticket for the slightly over 2 hour journey to Ottawa, for £78, which includes a nice seat, 3 course lunch and drinks including wine. And the WiFi works on the train! The equivalent train in the UK would be well over £200, you might get some snacks thrown at you and the WiFi certainly doesn’t work!
I arrived into a hot and sunny Ottawa by mid afternoon, though we were about 30 minutes late. This did mean that I was able to check in straight away when I arrived at the hotel in downtown Ottawa. I had a bit of a wander and then in the evening I met up with my roommate from my Thailand and Malaysia trip from earlier this year, who lives here in Ottawa. We went for a cold dip in the river at NCC River House, a free outdoor swimming area on the Ottawa River. We weren’t in the water too long (it was cold!!), but the air temperature was lovely so we sat out and chatted for ages before deciding we should go and find some food for dinner.
The next morning I started with a walk to the nearby Parliament buildings where at 10am every morning during the summer, the Changing of the Guard happens. As a Brit, this was all very familiar, as were the surroundings as the buildings certainly appear to be modelled on the UK Houses of Parliament (I’m sure someone will correct me here!). I didn’t stay for the whole ceremony as it was very warm, and so after a wander around the parliament buildings, I headed for some air conditioning in the form of the National Gallery of Canada. As I’ve got older, I’ve decided a quite enjoy wandering around an art gallery. This one had some interesting indigenous art, as well as other European and North American art. It also had an exhibition of Canadian artist Helen McNicoll, an impressionist, which I really enjoyed.
Familiar-looking buildings Parliament Another Notre DameHelen McNicoll painting
After that, I walked to the Byward Market for a little browsing and a late lunch followed by a Tim Hortons. In the evening I met up with my friend again, and some of her friends, as we enjoyed fireworks as part of a competition from a pub on the water. All very relaxing.
Byward MarketTimbits!On the riverFireworks
So, my first impressions of Canada. Montreal was unfortunately a bit damp and I’m not sure I saw the best of it. It is certainly a French-first city and I did manage to dredge up some of my schoolkid French to bumble through. When it was sunny on the final morning, it felt like a place I’d like to stay longer if it was dry. Ottawa had the benefit of being gloriously sunny (in fact a bit too hot at times) while I was there. It is officially bilingual, so my haltering French was less called for here. I really liked the vibe in Ottawa, a calmer city I think, very walkable. And the biggest plus of all to catch up with my friend.